Paddling in sennen cove

Atlantic driftwood


We evacuated from London in time to miss the 
royal wedding only to be greeted at our arrival 
at the Long Ship hotel in Penzance with a life 
size cut out of the "happy" couple and ads for 
the hotels wedding party the next day still 
after 5 hours plus on the train we were ready 
for a walk around town and for some local cider, 
the most common of which seemed to be cornish 
rattler and very easy to drink it is too.
Penzance seemed rather sleepy bordering on dead 
but it had enough pubs and restaurants to not be 
a disastrous place to stay even if the layout of 
the hotel was all a bit Faulty Towers, I never 
quite got the hang of how you went to find our 
Still on the Friday morning we walked across the 
road to the station to pick up our hire car a 
nice little Mazda and set off for Lands End down 
at the furthest end of the A30 a road that 
starts just before Heathrow Airport in Hounslow 
west London.
 The drive was gorgeous as the Cornish 
countryside is just incredible very nice farms 
and abandoned tin mines led us out to Lands End 
and into the car park at the end of the country. 
Unfortunately permission was given for the tacky 
tourist trap shop and entertainments for the 
visitors who aren't wowed by the natural beauty 
of the coast and don't marvel at how the ocean 
has carved into the granite hillside creatinbg 
its own sculptures, we took a good walk down the 
coastal path and got to see the remains of the 
last ship to wreck on these rocks, you only see 
it if you walk far enough and look over the edge 
there it is slowly but surely disintergrating 
over the years as the ocean batters it into the 
rocks a reminder of natures power.
That's probably why walking back to the touristy 
bit is so bad with its totally ersatz sign you 
pay to have a photo with and what turned out in 
the last and first cafe in the country I got 
charged a whopping £3.50 for a double espresso! 
The most I pay in London is £2 wow I guess 
that's the price of the view we have though.
We then drive down the coast a little to Sennen 
Cove that we could see from the end of our walk 
its a perfect small beach in the cove from which 
to stash all sorts of produce of the ocean, we 
park just beyond Tinker Taylor cottage in the 
harbour car park, there is an art gallery now in 
the oast house we walked back by down the short 
prom down to this sandy beach and Jet insisted 
we had a paddle it was freezing cold clear blue 
water it had to be done a stunning little cove 
to eat cornish pasties in too!
Then it was time to hit the country roads that 
were barely wide enough to get the car down but 
are two way with passing points and got to love 
it 70MPH national speed limits on them twisitng 
and turning dipping and diving across all sorts 
of magnigifcent views of cows and through St 
Buryan on passed sacreed doubling back round the 
drift reservoir  to catchall and over towards 
Lamorna we are headed towards Mousehole which 
has some very tricky narrow roads all around it 
we park up close to where the local Stitch and 
Bitch clubhouse is. 
Mousehole is a tinly little harbour village that 
clings to the granite hillsides and into the 
forests around it. very cute.
From there we came through the larger port of 
Newlyn which has a good surfing beach we then 
went up through Heamoor while bypassing penzance 
and up passed Gulva and into a slightly wide 
part of the country no longe about 4 miles 
across now more like 6 and into the magical 
country lanes exploring in and around Leedstown, 
st Erth and Godolphin cross how could we not go 
through Germoe we took a break in Marazion to 
look over at the very scary looking St Michaels 
Mount that is reached either by a causeway or 
small motor boats but has the real Wicker man 
Straw Dogs aura about it....
We found the house that Bonny Prince Charles hid 
in while he was fleeing the country back when we 
knew how to treat the royal family. a lovely 
little place. we took the short route back into 
Penzance along the coast following the railway 
line to find a couple of steam trains on one of 
the platforms at the station always good to see 
such great engines still working and of course 
the smell of coal burning. 
We had dinner in The Dolphin Inn right by the 
harbour, its the pub that claims to be the first 
place in England that Sir Walter Rayleigh smoked 
a pipe of tobacco! Sadly it is now illegal to 
follow his example in this fine old Inn that 
still serves good cornish ale I think I had a 
Proper Job while Jet stuck to the Cornish 
Rattler cider the food was great and so is this 
place. I love to go drinking in the same Inns as 
Rayleigh I think that is about the fourth one 
I've found now. 
The bar in the hotel was strangely quiet for a 
Friday night but we needed some Elderberry wine 
to finish the night off with.

About simonovitch

Writer poet music freak etc etc based in London you'll find out more by reading my blogs.
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